Balsam
Quarter Tac
"
For Your Riding Habit "
Tips
Blanket
- A few reasons for blanketing horses: protection against cold temperatures and wind chills resulting in shorter hair coats which lessens cool down time, keeps horses clean, offers protection from fence and pasture mate injury. For Blanket Size: Measure from the center of the chest, around the side to the tail
- Extend the life of your horse blankets - Clean your winter blankets before storing them. Not only do dirty blankets have a foul odor, bacteria will breed in the moist folds and break down the material and rot the stitching. Store your clean blanket in a cool, dry place. You'll be ready for next winter.
- For safe, comfortable, easy blanketing - fold the blanket in half crosswise-lay the folded blanket across the wither area - unfold, laying the tail part of the blanket over the haunches. Working from front to back allows the hari to lie flat under the blanket. Buckle the chest straps first - then cross the surcingles adjusting to allow a hand between the belly and straps. (If the surcingles are too loose, the horse could catch a hind leg while scratching or rolling, and cause damage to himself and the blanket.) Finally, clip the leg straps. To minimize rubbing and to keep the blanket more secure, cross the strap and attach to the same side. Remember, leg straps should be loose enough not to rub and short enough to avoid tangling a leg.
Bit
- A bit to a horse is like a boot to a cowboy, if it doesn't fit, he can't think of anything else.
Cleaning
- When you are cleaning your barn, remove those unsightly cobwebs. They can be a fire hazard. A spark or lightning strike at one corner of a stable can quickly blaze through the entire barn via the cobwebs. Spraying barn walls with a solution of Lysol and water during your seasonal cleaning will discourage spiders from making their homes in your barn.
- Composting may be the answer to the manure question. The internal heat of a manure heap kills parasites and fly eggs. The piles, ideally should be covered, and need to be at least a cubic yard in size. Locate your compost piles in a safe area away from building and water supply. Turn the piles occasionally. When the heat is gone, even after turning, you will have a useful and valuable soil additive.
Clipping/Trimming
- Blade suggestions for Trimming
- Before clipping, bathe your horse to remove the dirt, sweat, and oils that can dull and clog the clipper blades.
Coat
- You can encourage the process of winter coat shedding by grooming, exercing, and proper nutrition. After a good ride, which has produced a good sweat (to the horse, of course!), vigorously rub your horse with a towel. This will not only feel good to your horse, but will also stimulate the shedding process.
First Aid
- First aid products should be purchased before you need them. You should also know how to use the products. Practice wrapping your horse's legs with stable bandages and standing wraps. Store you first aid kits where they will not freeze and replace outdated supplies.
Grooming
- Removing Stains - One of the best shampoos on the market for removing those impossible grass, urine, and manure stains is Cowboy Magic Shine-In-Yellowout. It takes stains out of hair and gives dull hair of every color a more brilliant sheen. Stains disappear before your very eyes and gets replaced with silky, shiny great smelling hair!
- Basic Grooming Procedure
- Daily Cleaning - Step-by-Step
- Each horse should have his own grooming supplies, blankets, saddle pads, and leg wraps. Label and have a separate, designated place for each horse's supplies and tack. This method will help to prevent the spread of skin diseases and provide an organized tack room.
- If you are using a color enhancing shampoo, try bathing first with a good shampoo, like Vetroliin Bath, rinse thoroughly and then use the color enhancing shampoo. Quic Silver works great on gray colored horses.
Health
- If your horse seems a bit dull or he isn't quite himself take his vitals and compare to his normal/at rest numbers that you have recorded on his chart. If you decide that you need to call the veterinarian, you can relay your horse's temperature, respiration, and pulse.
- As with any athletics, stretching before riding is beneficial. Before mounting, stand with feet shoulder width apart - keep your chest open lift your arms to shoulder height, stretch reaching around to the left and to the right holding each stretch for thirty seconds. Extend your arms up and over your head bending to the left and right, holding each stretch. Stretching while in the saddle, if done safely, can be accomplished at the same time your horse is warming up at the walk. Stretching, touching your toe with your opposite hand, while in two-point will help to lengthen your back, hamstrings, calves, and heels. Take time to stretch after the ride. You'll feel the benefits!
- It is useful to know your horse's weight when calculating dosage of de-wormers, supplements, and medications. The correct dosage based on the body weight of your horse will allow the maximum benefit of these products. A weight tape is an easy way to determine a reasonable estimate on how much your horse weighs. Take several measurements throughout the year. By keeping a record of your horse's wieght, you will be aware of weight loss or gain.
- Check your horse daily for ticks. Certain species of ticks carry Lyme disease. Ticks especially like to burrow into the mane and tail. Some horses show a strong skin reaction from tick bites that include oozing and itching. It's important to carefully remove ticks as soon as possible.
- Take note of any wads of un-chewed hay that you may find in the stall or field. Horses with bad teeth or elderly horses cannot chew hay well enough to swallow it and they end up spitting it back out in wads. When you find these wads it's time to call the vet or your equine dentist.
- Listen to your horse. Know his body language. Be aware of his normal behavior. Knowing these things will enable you to be aware when something is not right with your horse.
- Keep a file on each horse with thorough records of all vaccinations, tooth card, hoof care, de-worming, and veterinarian care. Keeping accurate records will save you time and money with a bonus of happy, healthy horse.
- Working your horse on hills is great for strengthening his muscles. As always, start slow and be safe. Be aware of the well-being of your horse - don't overwork or overstress him. It may be easier for him to gallop up the steeper hills, but walking and trotting the hills will develop his muscles more effectively. Remember to assume a two-point position with weight in your heels, both uphill and downhill, to allow your horse to use his back freely. He will use his neck for balance going down the hill, so be sure to lengthen the reins.
- Stretching your horse can be beneficial! As with anything new, start slow. Encourage him to stretch his neck and back by holding a treat near his shoulder. Repeat on other side. Holding a treat between his forelegs will stretch his topline. Stretching your horse's front legs will help improve mobility of the shoulder. Start by picking up his front leg and slowly stretch it straight forward, holding the leg under the hell of the hoof. Stretch both legs equally.
- Grass will soon be coming on strong. It's extremely important to take the necessary precautions to avoid laminitis commonly known as "founder." Alternate grazing by stalling or using a dry lot. A grazing muzzle is also a good choice as it allows your horse to exercise and socialize as part of the herd.
- Urine will soak into the flooring producing un-pleasant and un-healthy fumes regardless of how tidy the stall is kept. Over time, ammonia fumes can damage the horse's throat and lungs. Using hydrolyzed lime over the wet area in a dirt floor will help neutralize the ammonia. Allowing wet spots to air dry while horses are in the paddock will also help.
- It's obvious there is a problem with your horse if you see blood. But in cases of colic, illness, or more subtle injuries, detection may not be so easy. Be a good observer of your horse's behavior patterns - this will help you recognize signs of ill health. You and your horse will benefit from having a chart listing your horse's vital signs, including temperature, pulse, and respiration.
Normal Range for Adult Horses:
Pluse rate: 30-42 beats per minute
Respiratory rate: 12-20 breaths per minute
Rectal temperature: 99.5-101.5
A free folder to help organize information on your horse is available at Balsam Quarter Tac!
- A weight tape is an easy way to provide a reasonable estimate of your horse's weight. Dosage for de-wormer, feed supplements, and medications are based on weight and knowing the weight will allow you to use the product correctly. Taking your horse's weight monthly will give a heads up to weight loss or gain.
- Don't have time to go to the gym? Intensify your chores around the barn to build muscle. Use water buckets filled to a 'custom' weight and do lifts, bicep curls, and squats. Mucking and tidying the stall is a great time to tone those core muscles. Make those trips to the muck pile and paddock count...jog every chance you get.
Hooves
- Horse boots, or leg wear, must survive an adverse environment because of being exposed to dirt, sand, manure, water. . . and abrasion with obstacles. Extreme activity stresses the equipment. Equipment varies in quality. Notice material, stitiching, design, and straps. For best service, buy the quality you can afford.
- Bell Boots - used to protect the hoof, coronet, and bulbs of the heel. Bell boots fit just below the fetlock, covering the heel and coronet. There are 2 main types of bells - pull-on and joined. Pull-on bells are sometimes made of pure rubber that stretches to help with the task of pulling it over the hoof. Double thickness on the lower half offers added protection. Velcro fasteners, especially double straps, are popular and seem to be durable. We've found that the Davis brand lasts longer. The no-turn style bell boots from Professional's Choice is also a good choice to help absorb the impact of overreaching.
- Hooves should be cleaned every day. Even if you don't ride. As you clean your horse's feet, you will notice any problems such as thrush, a loose shoe, a stone... and will be able to take quick action to help avoid a major problem. Choose your favorite color of hoof pick at Balsam Quarter Tac!
Saddle and Saddle Pad
- To keep your tack in top condition, clean and condition regularly. Dirt and sweat build-up can damage leather. As you clean, check carefully to see if any repairs are necessary. Routinely schedule deep cleaning and conditioning of your saddle, fittings, and bridle. Leather should be stored in a cool, dry place.
- Leather tack must be thoroughly cleaned and conditioned often to keep the soft and supple feel which will help in providing years of service. For those "in between" cleanings, make it a habit to quickly remove dirt and sweat after each ride. Lexol Quick Wipes work great for this. Keep your saddle and leather tack in a cool, dry place away from fee that can attract rodents. Use a saddle cover or saddle carrying bag to keep dust off. A sweaty saddle pad needs to air dry. If possible, have one or two extra saddle pads to allow rotating before washing. This extra effort will help to lessen bacteria and fungus being transferred to you horse the next time you ride.
- Having trouble getting the "dingy" out of your white saddle pads? Try pre-treating with Quic Silver. Yes, the shampoo you use on your grey horses! Just squeeze a little Quic Silver on the really dirty spots and scrub it in. You can also add a bit of the shampoo to the wahsing machine soak cycle and then complete washing as usual.
Safety
- When stabling overnight at a show, trail ride, or any new place, do a stall inspection before putting your horse in the stall. Check for broken or loose boards, loose nails, broken brackets, bent bars, broken windows, uneven flooring and damaged locks or hinges on the doors. Resolve any problems that would threaten your horse's safety.
- In case of an emergency, always keep a halter and lead on the stall door when the horse is stabled.
- Use a strong magnet attached to an old pitch fork handle to pick up any stray nails after the farrier's visit.
- The safest way to lead your horse is beside his left shoulder, holding the lead with your right hand close to the halter. Fold the excess of the lead in your left hand. It is very dangerous to coil the lead around your hand. A horse that suddenly jerks, can cause rope burns, broken fingers, or worse...
- EVERY BARN NEEDS A FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Know how to use it so you won't panic and fumble in an emergency. Check Regularly to make sure it is charged. Install battery-operated fire alarms in tack & feed rooms, barn aisles, and hay storage areas. Change batteries twice a year when clocks are changed to or from Daylight Savings Time.
- Keeping individual records on your horses will provide necessary information on vaccinations, de-worming, dental care, hoof care, and veterinery care. Come by Balsam Quarter Tac for a free folder that will help you have all the information at your fingertips!
- Smoking is dangerous around the barn. Make "No Smoking" a rule.
- Manure is flammable. Dump manure and soiled bedding a safe distance from your barn.
Show
- Are you ready for the show ring?
- Before you approach the show office, have all necessary information including current Coggins, registration papers, membership cards, list of classes you are entering, and payment. Know names and ages of horses and riders you are entering.
- Practice riding in your show clothes and tack before heading to the show. It's fine to use your comfortable clothes and tack while schooling and training, but when you tack up with your shiny new saddle, girth, or bridle and slip on your new breeches and new RJ Classic coat, it's a different feel. It's important to be comfortable at the show and practicing at home will help.
- In the show ring make sure you look neat and workmanlike. Clothes need to fit well, be clean, and pressed. Color coordination, including the horse, only add to the overall appearance. Dark colored jackets hide figure flaws and riding positions that are slightly less than perfect.
- Ring-sour Horse? - unwilling to enter ring/pen - focused on out-gate - trailer loading is a problem - pins ears when asked for maneuvers - behaves badly in ring - bad attitude at show
Stirrups & Stirrup Safety
- Selecting Irons - heavy irons (Fillis) are harder to 'lose' accidentally and easier to 'pick up.' Stainless steel is more durable than plated iron or nickel. Fitting the iron is important. With the rider's foot resting close to the inside of the iron, a space of about 1" is appropriate.
- There are several styles of quick release stirrups that are designed to minimize the rider's foot from becoming caught in the stirrup which can result in the rider being dragged. These are known as peacock irons, safety irons, quick-out, or quick release.
Trail Riding
- Trail riding refreshes the body and soul. Hitting the trail has lots of benefits:
breaks the monotony of ring work, increases confidence, improves balance and your seat, allows your horse to stretch out, strenthens different muscles, helps agility and surefootedness as he navigates uneven terrain, exposes new things such as deer, bicycles, hikers
Trailer Safety
- Make sure your horse trailer has plenty of ventilation for adequate air flow. Heat build-up inside the trailer can cause serious problems for your horse. Never let a trailer sit in hot sun with horses inside. If possible, in hot weather, transport horses at night when temperatures are cooler.
- Knowing how to hook up, load, and drive a truck and trailer is important even if you don't own a trailer. In an emergency, a qualified driver may not abe available to haul your horse to the vet. You must be prepared.
If you're pulling long distance, you will also be able to relieve the driver. Having a second pair of knowledgeable eyes is always a plus.
- While hauling, if you stop and must leave your rig unattended, always check your horses, doors, tires, brake/light plug, safety chains, and hitch before continuing your trip. Even though pranks/practical jokes rarely happen, it is better to be safe than sorry.
- Perform safety checks on you truck and trailer before hauling.
Check tread on all tires. In case of flat tire, have jacks, wheel chock, reflective safety markers and spare tire.
Check floorboards for rot or weakness.
Check for sharp edges and loose screws.
Check that all lights are working properly.
Check hitch, safety chains, and snaps.
Test brakes. Grease hitch ball if needed.
Have a complete first aid kit.
If in doubt, contact your trailer service and repair dealer.
Winter/Snow
- To help combat the snow balling buildup in your horse's hooves, spread a thin layer of Vaseline onto the sole of each hoof. Your horse still needs traction so avoid the edges of the hoof and the shoes.
Misc
- Plan drainage well. Having proper drainage around your barn, paddock, and riding ring area is a must. Flooding and erosion can ruin your facility during wet weather. If necessary consult a professional erosion control contractor.
- A few reasons for blanketing horses: protection against cold temperatures and wind chills resulting in shorter hair coats which lessens cool down time, keeps horses clean, offers protection from fence and pasture mate injury. For Blanket Size: Measure from the center of the chest, around the side to the tail
- Extend the life of your horse blankets - Clean your winter blankets before storing them. Not only do dirty blankets have a foul odor, bacteria will breed in the moist folds and break down the material and rot the stitching. Store your clean blanket in a cool, dry place. You'll be ready for next winter.
- For safe, comfortable, easy blanketing - fold the blanket in half crosswise-lay the folded blanket across the wither area - unfold, laying the tail part of the blanket over the haunches. Working from front to back allows the hari to lie flat under the blanket. Buckle the chest straps first - then cross the surcingles adjusting to allow a hand between the belly and straps. (If the surcingles are too loose, the horse could catch a hind leg while scratching or rolling, and cause damage to himself and the blanket.) Finally, clip the leg straps. To minimize rubbing and to keep the blanket more secure, cross the strap and attach to the same side. Remember, leg straps should be loose enough not to rub and short enough to avoid tangling a leg.
Bit
- A bit to a horse is like a boot to a cowboy, if it doesn't fit, he can't think of anything else.
Cleaning
- When you are cleaning your barn, remove those unsightly cobwebs. They can be a fire hazard. A spark or lightning strike at one corner of a stable can quickly blaze through the entire barn via the cobwebs. Spraying barn walls with a solution of Lysol and water during your seasonal cleaning will discourage spiders from making their homes in your barn.
- Composting may be the answer to the manure question. The internal heat of a manure heap kills parasites and fly eggs. The piles, ideally should be covered, and need to be at least a cubic yard in size. Locate your compost piles in a safe area away from building and water supply. Turn the piles occasionally. When the heat is gone, even after turning, you will have a useful and valuable soil additive.
Clipping/Trimming
- Blade suggestions for Trimming
Trim Bridle Path #15
Clean Up #30
Clip Muzzle, Jaw Line, and Cheeks #15
Blend #10
Clean Up #40
Clip 'Cat' Hairs around Eyes #15
Trim Ears #15, #30, or #40
Trim Fetlocks and Pasterns #10 or #15
Boot-Up Legs #10 or #15
Clean Up #30
Clip Muzzle, Jaw Line, and Cheeks #15
Blend #10
Clean Up #40
Clip 'Cat' Hairs around Eyes #15
Trim Ears #15, #30, or #40
Trim Fetlocks and Pasterns #10 or #15
Boot-Up Legs #10 or #15
- Before clipping, bathe your horse to remove the dirt, sweat, and oils that can dull and clog the clipper blades.
Coat
- You can encourage the process of winter coat shedding by grooming, exercing, and proper nutrition. After a good ride, which has produced a good sweat (to the horse, of course!), vigorously rub your horse with a towel. This will not only feel good to your horse, but will also stimulate the shedding process.
First Aid
- First aid products should be purchased before you need them. You should also know how to use the products. Practice wrapping your horse's legs with stable bandages and standing wraps. Store you first aid kits where they will not freeze and replace outdated supplies.
Grooming
- Removing Stains - One of the best shampoos on the market for removing those impossible grass, urine, and manure stains is Cowboy Magic Shine-In-Yellowout. It takes stains out of hair and gives dull hair of every color a more brilliant sheen. Stains disappear before your very eyes and gets replaced with silky, shiny great smelling hair!
- Basic Grooming Procedure
1. Rubber Currycomb - breaks up caked dirt, loosens scurf and dead hair, massages the skin and muscles
2. Dandy Brush (stiff) - sweeps skin free of larger particles of dirt
3. Body Brush - removes dust and fine particles
4. Stable Rub Rag (raw silk) - removes fine dust and polishes the coat
5. Damp Sponge - gently cleans eyes, nostrils, lips and ears
6. Disposable Wipes - cleans udder/sheath and underneath tail
7. Mane/Tail Comb - gently pull apart any trangles - (Cowboy Magic Detangler & Shine works well to help with this step)
2. Dandy Brush (stiff) - sweeps skin free of larger particles of dirt
3. Body Brush - removes dust and fine particles
4. Stable Rub Rag (raw silk) - removes fine dust and polishes the coat
5. Damp Sponge - gently cleans eyes, nostrils, lips and ears
6. Disposable Wipes - cleans udder/sheath and underneath tail
7. Mane/Tail Comb - gently pull apart any trangles - (Cowboy Magic Detangler & Shine works well to help with this step)
- Daily Cleaning - Step-by-Step
1. Rub horse with towel to loosen dirt.
2. Scrub coat with curry to lift dirt to surface.
3. Spot clean any stains that remain on the body.
4. Curry or sponge the face,
5. Brush off or vacuum loosened dirt on body.
6. Rub coat with soft brush or cloth.
7. Rub coat with your hand.
8. Untangle any knots and pick debris from the mane an tail
9. Brush dirt from hoof walls and pick feet.
2. Scrub coat with curry to lift dirt to surface.
3. Spot clean any stains that remain on the body.
4. Curry or sponge the face,
5. Brush off or vacuum loosened dirt on body.
6. Rub coat with soft brush or cloth.
7. Rub coat with your hand.
8. Untangle any knots and pick debris from the mane an tail
9. Brush dirt from hoof walls and pick feet.
- Each horse should have his own grooming supplies, blankets, saddle pads, and leg wraps. Label and have a separate, designated place for each horse's supplies and tack. This method will help to prevent the spread of skin diseases and provide an organized tack room.
- If you are using a color enhancing shampoo, try bathing first with a good shampoo, like Vetroliin Bath, rinse thoroughly and then use the color enhancing shampoo. Quic Silver works great on gray colored horses.
Health
- If your horse seems a bit dull or he isn't quite himself take his vitals and compare to his normal/at rest numbers that you have recorded on his chart. If you decide that you need to call the veterinarian, you can relay your horse's temperature, respiration, and pulse.
- As with any athletics, stretching before riding is beneficial. Before mounting, stand with feet shoulder width apart - keep your chest open lift your arms to shoulder height, stretch reaching around to the left and to the right holding each stretch for thirty seconds. Extend your arms up and over your head bending to the left and right, holding each stretch. Stretching while in the saddle, if done safely, can be accomplished at the same time your horse is warming up at the walk. Stretching, touching your toe with your opposite hand, while in two-point will help to lengthen your back, hamstrings, calves, and heels. Take time to stretch after the ride. You'll feel the benefits!
- It is useful to know your horse's weight when calculating dosage of de-wormers, supplements, and medications. The correct dosage based on the body weight of your horse will allow the maximum benefit of these products. A weight tape is an easy way to determine a reasonable estimate on how much your horse weighs. Take several measurements throughout the year. By keeping a record of your horse's wieght, you will be aware of weight loss or gain.
- Check your horse daily for ticks. Certain species of ticks carry Lyme disease. Ticks especially like to burrow into the mane and tail. Some horses show a strong skin reaction from tick bites that include oozing and itching. It's important to carefully remove ticks as soon as possible.
- Take note of any wads of un-chewed hay that you may find in the stall or field. Horses with bad teeth or elderly horses cannot chew hay well enough to swallow it and they end up spitting it back out in wads. When you find these wads it's time to call the vet or your equine dentist.
- Listen to your horse. Know his body language. Be aware of his normal behavior. Knowing these things will enable you to be aware when something is not right with your horse.
- Keep a file on each horse with thorough records of all vaccinations, tooth card, hoof care, de-worming, and veterinarian care. Keeping accurate records will save you time and money with a bonus of happy, healthy horse.
- Working your horse on hills is great for strengthening his muscles. As always, start slow and be safe. Be aware of the well-being of your horse - don't overwork or overstress him. It may be easier for him to gallop up the steeper hills, but walking and trotting the hills will develop his muscles more effectively. Remember to assume a two-point position with weight in your heels, both uphill and downhill, to allow your horse to use his back freely. He will use his neck for balance going down the hill, so be sure to lengthen the reins.
- Stretching your horse can be beneficial! As with anything new, start slow. Encourage him to stretch his neck and back by holding a treat near his shoulder. Repeat on other side. Holding a treat between his forelegs will stretch his topline. Stretching your horse's front legs will help improve mobility of the shoulder. Start by picking up his front leg and slowly stretch it straight forward, holding the leg under the hell of the hoof. Stretch both legs equally.
- Grass will soon be coming on strong. It's extremely important to take the necessary precautions to avoid laminitis commonly known as "founder." Alternate grazing by stalling or using a dry lot. A grazing muzzle is also a good choice as it allows your horse to exercise and socialize as part of the herd.
- Urine will soak into the flooring producing un-pleasant and un-healthy fumes regardless of how tidy the stall is kept. Over time, ammonia fumes can damage the horse's throat and lungs. Using hydrolyzed lime over the wet area in a dirt floor will help neutralize the ammonia. Allowing wet spots to air dry while horses are in the paddock will also help.
- It's obvious there is a problem with your horse if you see blood. But in cases of colic, illness, or more subtle injuries, detection may not be so easy. Be a good observer of your horse's behavior patterns - this will help you recognize signs of ill health. You and your horse will benefit from having a chart listing your horse's vital signs, including temperature, pulse, and respiration.
Normal Range for Adult Horses:
Pluse rate: 30-42 beats per minute
Respiratory rate: 12-20 breaths per minute
Rectal temperature: 99.5-101.5
A free folder to help organize information on your horse is available at Balsam Quarter Tac!
- A weight tape is an easy way to provide a reasonable estimate of your horse's weight. Dosage for de-wormer, feed supplements, and medications are based on weight and knowing the weight will allow you to use the product correctly. Taking your horse's weight monthly will give a heads up to weight loss or gain.
- Don't have time to go to the gym? Intensify your chores around the barn to build muscle. Use water buckets filled to a 'custom' weight and do lifts, bicep curls, and squats. Mucking and tidying the stall is a great time to tone those core muscles. Make those trips to the muck pile and paddock count...jog every chance you get.
Hooves
- Horse boots, or leg wear, must survive an adverse environment because of being exposed to dirt, sand, manure, water. . . and abrasion with obstacles. Extreme activity stresses the equipment. Equipment varies in quality. Notice material, stitiching, design, and straps. For best service, buy the quality you can afford.
- Bell Boots - used to protect the hoof, coronet, and bulbs of the heel. Bell boots fit just below the fetlock, covering the heel and coronet. There are 2 main types of bells - pull-on and joined. Pull-on bells are sometimes made of pure rubber that stretches to help with the task of pulling it over the hoof. Double thickness on the lower half offers added protection. Velcro fasteners, especially double straps, are popular and seem to be durable. We've found that the Davis brand lasts longer. The no-turn style bell boots from Professional's Choice is also a good choice to help absorb the impact of overreaching.
- Hooves should be cleaned every day. Even if you don't ride. As you clean your horse's feet, you will notice any problems such as thrush, a loose shoe, a stone... and will be able to take quick action to help avoid a major problem. Choose your favorite color of hoof pick at Balsam Quarter Tac!
Saddle and Saddle Pad
- To keep your tack in top condition, clean and condition regularly. Dirt and sweat build-up can damage leather. As you clean, check carefully to see if any repairs are necessary. Routinely schedule deep cleaning and conditioning of your saddle, fittings, and bridle. Leather should be stored in a cool, dry place.
- Leather tack must be thoroughly cleaned and conditioned often to keep the soft and supple feel which will help in providing years of service. For those "in between" cleanings, make it a habit to quickly remove dirt and sweat after each ride. Lexol Quick Wipes work great for this. Keep your saddle and leather tack in a cool, dry place away from fee that can attract rodents. Use a saddle cover or saddle carrying bag to keep dust off. A sweaty saddle pad needs to air dry. If possible, have one or two extra saddle pads to allow rotating before washing. This extra effort will help to lessen bacteria and fungus being transferred to you horse the next time you ride.
- Having trouble getting the "dingy" out of your white saddle pads? Try pre-treating with Quic Silver. Yes, the shampoo you use on your grey horses! Just squeeze a little Quic Silver on the really dirty spots and scrub it in. You can also add a bit of the shampoo to the wahsing machine soak cycle and then complete washing as usual.
Safety
- When stabling overnight at a show, trail ride, or any new place, do a stall inspection before putting your horse in the stall. Check for broken or loose boards, loose nails, broken brackets, bent bars, broken windows, uneven flooring and damaged locks or hinges on the doors. Resolve any problems that would threaten your horse's safety.
- In case of an emergency, always keep a halter and lead on the stall door when the horse is stabled.
- Use a strong magnet attached to an old pitch fork handle to pick up any stray nails after the farrier's visit.
- The safest way to lead your horse is beside his left shoulder, holding the lead with your right hand close to the halter. Fold the excess of the lead in your left hand. It is very dangerous to coil the lead around your hand. A horse that suddenly jerks, can cause rope burns, broken fingers, or worse...
- EVERY BARN NEEDS A FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Know how to use it so you won't panic and fumble in an emergency. Check Regularly to make sure it is charged. Install battery-operated fire alarms in tack & feed rooms, barn aisles, and hay storage areas. Change batteries twice a year when clocks are changed to or from Daylight Savings Time.
- Keeping individual records on your horses will provide necessary information on vaccinations, de-worming, dental care, hoof care, and veterinery care. Come by Balsam Quarter Tac for a free folder that will help you have all the information at your fingertips!
- Smoking is dangerous around the barn. Make "No Smoking" a rule.
- Manure is flammable. Dump manure and soiled bedding a safe distance from your barn.
Show
- Are you ready for the show ring?
- Wash saddle pad or have a new one just for shows
- Clean and polish saddle, girth, breastplate, bridle, stirrups, and bit
- Enter the ring with a clean and groomed horse
- Mane and tail should be tangle free. Sheath or udder area should be clean.
- Have complete appropriate attire.
- Hair should be neat and contained. Hair nets are available in tones to match hair.
- Polish boots
- No dangle earrings
- Protect your show clothes while grooming and saddling
- Clean and polish saddle, girth, breastplate, bridle, stirrups, and bit
- Enter the ring with a clean and groomed horse
- Mane and tail should be tangle free. Sheath or udder area should be clean.
- Have complete appropriate attire.
- Hair should be neat and contained. Hair nets are available in tones to match hair.
- Polish boots
- No dangle earrings
- Protect your show clothes while grooming and saddling
- Before you approach the show office, have all necessary information including current Coggins, registration papers, membership cards, list of classes you are entering, and payment. Know names and ages of horses and riders you are entering.
- Practice riding in your show clothes and tack before heading to the show. It's fine to use your comfortable clothes and tack while schooling and training, but when you tack up with your shiny new saddle, girth, or bridle and slip on your new breeches and new RJ Classic coat, it's a different feel. It's important to be comfortable at the show and practicing at home will help.
- In the show ring make sure you look neat and workmanlike. Clothes need to fit well, be clean, and pressed. Color coordination, including the horse, only add to the overall appearance. Dark colored jackets hide figure flaws and riding positions that are slightly less than perfect.
- Ring-sour Horse? - unwilling to enter ring/pen - focused on out-gate - trailer loading is a problem - pins ears when asked for maneuvers - behaves badly in ring - bad attitude at show
Stirrups & Stirrup Safety
- Selecting Irons - heavy irons (Fillis) are harder to 'lose' accidentally and easier to 'pick up.' Stainless steel is more durable than plated iron or nickel. Fitting the iron is important. With the rider's foot resting close to the inside of the iron, a space of about 1" is appropriate.
- There are several styles of quick release stirrups that are designed to minimize the rider's foot from becoming caught in the stirrup which can result in the rider being dragged. These are known as peacock irons, safety irons, quick-out, or quick release.
Trail Riding
- Trail riding refreshes the body and soul. Hitting the trail has lots of benefits:
breaks the monotony of ring work, increases confidence, improves balance and your seat, allows your horse to stretch out, strenthens different muscles, helps agility and surefootedness as he navigates uneven terrain, exposes new things such as deer, bicycles, hikers
Trailer Safety
- Make sure your horse trailer has plenty of ventilation for adequate air flow. Heat build-up inside the trailer can cause serious problems for your horse. Never let a trailer sit in hot sun with horses inside. If possible, in hot weather, transport horses at night when temperatures are cooler.
- Knowing how to hook up, load, and drive a truck and trailer is important even if you don't own a trailer. In an emergency, a qualified driver may not abe available to haul your horse to the vet. You must be prepared.
If you're pulling long distance, you will also be able to relieve the driver. Having a second pair of knowledgeable eyes is always a plus.
- While hauling, if you stop and must leave your rig unattended, always check your horses, doors, tires, brake/light plug, safety chains, and hitch before continuing your trip. Even though pranks/practical jokes rarely happen, it is better to be safe than sorry.
- Perform safety checks on you truck and trailer before hauling.
Check tread on all tires. In case of flat tire, have jacks, wheel chock, reflective safety markers and spare tire.
Check floorboards for rot or weakness.
Check for sharp edges and loose screws.
Check that all lights are working properly.
Check hitch, safety chains, and snaps.
Test brakes. Grease hitch ball if needed.
Have a complete first aid kit.
If in doubt, contact your trailer service and repair dealer.
Winter/Snow
- To help combat the snow balling buildup in your horse's hooves, spread a thin layer of Vaseline onto the sole of each hoof. Your horse still needs traction so avoid the edges of the hoof and the shoes.
Misc
- Plan drainage well. Having proper drainage around your barn, paddock, and riding ring area is a must. Flooding and erosion can ruin your facility during wet weather. If necessary consult a professional erosion control contractor.
Balsam
Quarter Tac
521 Long Shoals Rd
Arden, NC 28704
Phone: (828) 684-8445
Fax: (828) 684-3449
Shop Online: www.foryourridinghabit.com
Hours:
10am to 5:30pm - Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday
9am to 1pm - Saturday
Closed - Sunday, Wednesday
521 Long Shoals Rd
Arden, NC 28704
Phone: (828) 684-8445
Fax: (828) 684-3449
Shop Online: www.foryourridinghabit.com
Hours:
10am to 5:30pm - Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday
9am to 1pm - Saturday
Closed - Sunday, Wednesday